Lingering on Lembata

After trolling an hour east of Larantuka on the fast ferry, we arrived in the main city of Lembata Island, Lewoleba.  The ride provided some great views of the myriad of volcanic landforms, giving hints at what was to come.  Nova had arranged for a local police chief to pick us up after cashing in on an earlier connection made in Rote Island.  The chief, Um Robby and his friend and driver Julius were parked on the boat dock with a rugged Toyota Hilux ready to go.  This rigor proved to be necessary for travel across the rough roads on the island. 

Our 10:30 am arrival allowed us time to push ahead with permitting and set off to find a site for one of our two installs.  By 1pm or so, we were able to leave Lewoleba and move down the line of permitting by going north to speak with the Camat that looked over the group of villages we sets site on for installing.  He recommended that we put our station in near his office, but it was not far enough to the north for our pre-determined location.  Fast forward to the last day…we installed it where he originally suggested.

After speaking with the Camat the first day, talked with our targeted village leaders, then went on to the next village to the south and agreed on a location. The first village was very skeptical about our presence.  After we waited for them to assemble, Nova provided a comprehensive summary of our project and the motivation behind our efforts.  Despite this effort, they were not convinced of the benign nature of our project – a prior experience with a US gold mining company has very deeply broken their trust of foreign (especially US) scientists.  So we were stuck in a moment of compromise, we wanted to install our station nearby, but only under the condition of complete agreement and acceptance.  We were forced to move on to the next village south.  It was late in the day, but the village leader led us to a site and we agreed that is would be suitable.  He was kind enough to let us store our delicate seismometer and other equipment in his house until we returned in two days.  All seemed well despite the awkwardness and distrust of the previous village.  We went back to Lewoleba with a sense of progress and feasted on some delicious fish and squid near the harbor. Yum.

The road along the coastline south from Lewoleba.  A newly erected statue of St. Mary (left) was celebrated the next day.

The next day, we headed south to gain some distance from the previous location.  The road was very rough and required slow pace of travel.  Some excellent views of a volcano across the strait gave some appropriate distraction from the bone-jarring road.  It was a hot day.  We made it to the Camat office; he was a sleepy and feeble man, but was willing to help us find a location by our targeted site.  We clambered 10 km further south to arrive in a village that turned out to be situated on a large prominent lava flow.  Oh boy, who loves digging!?  After standing around in the scorching heat convincing ourselves that we did not want to get out the chisel again (and we didn’t have Rosy from Sumba), and heeding the warning that the land to the south was cursed (ha ha), we headed back north to a more appealing location on a village leader’s private property.  The drive to the site climbs up an alluvial fan that is spilling out of the flank of an extinguished volcano, elevating above the coast to reveal a stunning view of the 1659m tall Iliboleng, an active volcano that last erupted in 1888.  At least the scenery was nice.  We did not have much for breakfast and it was hot.  The installation was difficult, but we tackled it as a team and finishing in about 6 hours (a few hours longer than normal). 

Iliboleng is hiding under the clouds, but station BAOP is listening to it breathing now.

After going back to Lewoleba and going straight to bed to make up some much needed sleep, we were charged up to finish off our work on the island.  We made good time to get back to the north to meet the village leader who stored our equipment.  He presented some bad news: the people of the village did not want our equipment there, fearing the worst for their land.  We were back to square one.  Even if we could convince them that we would not/cannot do harm to their land, it would be completely unnerving to think about future potential for disaster.  So we packed our stuff up and left, trying to preserve our dignity and also be respectful of the situation.  We were fortunate that the Camat was available to talk with us on the weekend; he set us up with the local village leader in Hadakewa for a nearby location.  No problem.  The best parts – the station (and the previous on Lembata) is (1) in direct view of an active volcano (Lewotolo, recorded activity since 1660 and on), and (2) close to the driver Julius’ relatives house where we had some immaculate fresh grilled tuna! 

Ah yeah, Lewotolo is beautiful.  It looks like it is puffing a little bit here.

Our return trip to Flores consisted of a morning boat ride back to Larantuka, then 6+ hours of driving to Ende.  We picked up the remaining four set of equipment along the way, leading us ever closer to the completion of this work.  The terrain between Maumere and Ende is dramatically different than previous travel.  The steep mountain slopes force the main road into a serpentine spiral.  Cool, lush climate envelopes the area, hopefully providing us some relief in the coming days. 

Hot times from Maumere to Larantuka

Two more stations in the bag as we are ready to leave Larantuka tomorrow morning by ferry, set to head east to Pulau Lembata for two more installs.  The past two days provided successful missions, but required some major endurance.  Each day, we had enough permitting and errand running to force us to start working at noon.  As such, we took on the hottest part of the day.  It was a good experience meeting folks from both villages - they were accepting and appreciative of what we are doing.  They have all felt gempa bumis (earthquakes) in the very recent past, and have experience significant ones prior.  We have heard some stories about a large earthquake in 1992 that generated a tsunami that leveled the area.  If we can do anything to help them better prepare for these disasters, our work here will transcend our other scientific goals.

Team photo from Bangkoor village.  Small 800m tall volcanic peak in background.

The drive from Bangkoor to Larantuka provides some of our first up close looks at volcanoes.  Lewotobi is recently active, including eruptions in the 19th and 20th centuries.  As the drive went along, we had a long look at the peak during a beautiful sunset.  Once emerging on the coast as we made our way closer to Larantuka, looks of the Savu Sea seemed romantic given the stunning scenery.  Definitely looking forward to more of this!

One of the bigger volcanoes in East Flores, Gunung Lewotobi (1800 m), peeking out in the sunset.

 

On the approach to Larantuka, small volcanic cones dot the landscape...some poke out of the ocean!

After a night in Larantuka, we clambered our way across some rough road to head north.  This location provided a unique opportunity to install a station in a more northerly location than most of Flores can offer.  We spent a bit of time searching around for a site with local Camat providing his recommendation.  Abundant vegetation, very rocky terrain, and stinging heat slowed down our progress with siting.  But we finally broke through and found a good location.  One of the best factors of our final destination was a big shade tree about 50 meters away to the south that provided us some much needed relief. 

Site installed in Sinamalaka village, a huge mango tree in the background. Nova snapping her own photo as some local bros look on.

Finally, some volcanic terrain

We have successfully shipped eight stations to Maumere, the biggest city in East Flores Island.  Our plan is to deploy four stations to the east and four to the west.  It is particularly exiting to be here since we now see a completely new geologic province – the active volcanic arc.  The basement of Timor and Sumba are composed entirely of older (>300-70 million years old) accreted sedimentary and metamorphic blocks whereas Flores is a young (<15 million years) and active volcanic arc.  The change in topography clearly reflects this; our flight into Maumere took us past an inactive volcanic edifice that displays a classic cone shape.  A quick look around the horizon shows many more glimpses of volcanoes.  Appropriate photos to come in future posts. 

Oblique view of Lembata Island (bottom) through Flores Island looking westward.  Sumba Island at far top left.  The small orange symbols show the location of active volcanoes, taken from the Smithsonian database, and will provide some stunning scenery as we move along.  We will take a ferry from Larantuka to Lewoleba.

While waiting for our equipment to arrive in Maumere, we made the rounds of permitting.  Each time we visit a new location, requests for different documentation and levels of formality are presented.  The most important letter we obtain is from the Kesbanpol (government affairs and permitting), providing us approval to move on to the local representatives. This particular effort proved challenging despite receiving endorsement from the Bupati (one level above Kesbanpol), the police, and the hazard mitigation agency.  ARRGH.  But, it appears we will finally be able to pick up our letter in the morning as we head off to install the first stations.  Fingers crossed…

Numerous trips to the Maumere Kes-ban-pol provided this photo op.  Please, no more visits here.

Rosie the Chiseler

Not all holes are created equal (or with equal effort anyway). Some soils swallow our digging tools like a soft, voracious mouth that widens with every belch of loosed earth. Others etch their names into our hands and arms as a series of callouses, blisters and cuts that reads like a brail eulogy to the rocks we had to fight our way through. Sometimes the soil is so thin and the rocks so hard that our efforts need to be supplemented with the vigor of local helpers. Such was the case in Melolo on the island of Sumba. As discussed earlier, the island itself is tiered with uplifted coral terraces like a lithified escalator. Digging through coral is no cakewalk and can take a team of two dashing American scientists and a platoon of local men well over an hour to make a hole about 1 meter deep and 2/3 meters across. The soil in Melolo was nothing more than erosional gossamer not even 5 cm thick draped over continuous horizons of cement-like coral terraces. Progress was slow as we worked with 3 local men, taking turns with the digging bar. It was decided we needed a chisel and sent word through one of the children watching that anyone nearby who had one would be compensated to let us borrow it. While we awaited a response I noticed an older woman, more than likely in her 50’s, more than likely a grandmother, hiking towards us up a gentle hill that ran down to some nearby homes. She was wearing a tan bucket hat, a pink and white striped t-shirt, Carolina blue capris and flip-flops and she was carrying an enormous chisel and a fearful hammer. My first thought was that she was bringing the tools to give to one of the local men helping us dig so I walked to intercept her so I could claim the first crack with that biblical hammer. Barely glancing up to meet my eye she brushed past me, not rudely, but without hesitation. She marched right up to the hole and ordered all the men out at once (they listened) whereupon she hopped in and started smashing the rocks to smithereens in a sequence of furious blows that instantly made her one of my heroes. Let me be absolutely clear: she wasn’t just decent at pulverizing rocks – she was amazing! Amazing for anyone of any age, let alone a grandmother. In a country where gender roles are often more entrenched than California, this caught me completely off guard in the best possible way. I thought to myself that this woman was more of an inspiration than she will ever know. After her initial onslaught she took a break and became a permanent member of the “hole rotation”, each member working him-or-herself to exhaustion before being replaced. We finished the hole some 2 hours after we broke ground and I was fortunate enough to snap a few photos of the day’s MVP – one with her bludgeon and one mid blow with the digging bar. It suffices to say that the next time I see a kindly woman bringing some hardware to a dig site I’m going to stand back.

Finished with Sumba install

Four stations installed in seven days, including round-trip travel from Kupang to Sumba.  Pretty good considering the overwhelming uncertainty in doing anything here.  We flew back from the northwest of Sumba today via Tambolaka Airport located in the city of Waitabula.  Catching the flight back to Kupang may be the most remarkable part of the journey; we finished the local installation around 2:30pm, rushed to the airport to buy our tickets to fly back at 3:30pm.  Fortunately, the flight was late and there were enough seats available.  Unfortunately (for the other passengers), we were pretty salty and ripe after coming straight out of the field in a rush to the airport. 

Map of Pulau Sumba.  Melolo in far east, Kambapari in center, Napu in north, Waitabula in NW.

Backing up in time, picking up from the previous post, we successfully installed two stations the day after the Napu site.  Early in the morning, we went back to Melolo to finish off the station.  Being the third visit to the location, it was imperative that it did not take much time to wrap it up.  This was the case, only needing an hour of time to put the baby (seismometer) to rest in its comfortable crib (our newly poured concrete slab).  We paid the land owners and caretakers some incentives, devoured some delicious coconuts, and headed back to Waingapu to set out for the second installation.  By the time we made it back, Cooper was ready to roll after battling off a throat infection.  He was prepared for this situation and didn't miss much action.  I'm surprised we are not all afflicted by some sort of respiratory problem given the constant exposure to cigarettes, burning trash, and burning leaves. 

Our next destination took us into central Sumba to the village of Kambapari.  This was a refreshing experience since the 600 meter climb in elevation provided a cool climate and the smallest dose of vital rain.  Our prior meeting with the Camat of Kambapari was encouraging as he was amenable to our work and provided us with some suggestions of where we might install.  When we arrived at the Camat office, we were able to sort out a location that was suitable.  Fast forward to the end of the install; by now we are a well-oiled machine, no problem.  We finished the install and then proceeded to pay out the local helpers and long-term site maintenance personnel in a hilariously awkward manner.  Typically, we give the "smooth handshake" to people who help us dig, build fences, etc., dishing out 20-100k rupiah for their help at the site.  Then we have a formal meeting and pay the land owner/caretaker in a ceremonial manner.  This time, it was all mashed together in an awkward and disorganized clusterfest, where we dished out the small payments amongst the whole group of local leaders, staff members, and community members.  Numerous redundant handshakes and chuckles from the onlookers cemented the fact that this was indeed a bumbling moment and we all laughed about it on the way back to Waingapu.  I was pretty tired by the time we made it back, fell asleep at 8pm and woke up just in time to call my beloved wife Maggie, thereby delivering myself a most excellent birthday present by having a quick chat with her.   I really miss you Maggie, don't worry the next time won't take us apart for so long...all the hard work is being done now!

Sign in front of "Camat office" where we installed site KPAR...also the site of hilarious awkwardness.

The compulsory team photo after install. Ol' Larry looking dirty.  Village leader in the tiedye shirt, Ule behind him in red, the Camat officer behind me was a post-pounding master, Cooper hanging on to Umbu and the guy who will be weeding the site over time.

Then it was time to leave Waingapu to get to the other side of the island.  The main road in Sumba traverses the high axis of topography that runs parallel to the north and south sides of the islands.  No problem, we just made sure to travel during the day (there are reports of pirates that rob people at night along this road) and see what happened once we arrived in Waitabula, the NW population center.  Amidst consistent talk that our preferred install site (Kodi village, 30 km west of Waitabula) was not safe - land disputes, legends of beheadings, robbery, conflict between levels of government - we opted to find a site closer to Waitabula.  We arrived at the government affairs office at 3:05pm, finding that they closed at 3.  Great.  We took a stab at trying to talk with a nearby village leader only to find him cold as ice (oh, how we would love to have some ice...) because we did not have any local documentation supporting our project.  ARRGH.  Our next attempt was to go to the local police.  This is something we do in any case so we can inform them of our presence and establish a record to support any potential future problems.  The meeting was much better than a simple meet, greet, and letter delivery - they started brainstorming about where we might be welcomed and came up with an excellent option, a local Camat office.  We passed them some cigarettes (local currency) and set out to talk with the Camat.  He was amenable on the condition that we would talk with the Bupati and government affairs the next day, and we went out to his office to verify that is would be a good location.  It was/is a good location, transforming our mental state from completely defeated to optimistic over the course of about an hour.  No problem. 

After prepping for install, we the Bupati in Waitabula and received informal permission to go ahead.  Again, the well-oiled (and sweaty) machine handled business.  Ohhhh yeah.  We named the site BULE to provide ourselves with a trivial bit of comedic relief.  Recall that bule is the Indonesian term for "white person" that does not hold negative connotation.  Hence the following logic: Waitabula is close enough to Waitabule, Watiabule sounds a lot like "white boy," Cooper and I are definitely "white boys" and bules at the same time.  You best believe that we stand out everywhere we go, probably because Cooper likes to wear his "suns out, guns out" cutoff shirt when we travel. 

Coop delivering the bule dance at station BULE.  He is sending a wicked south-to-north pulse to the sensor to demonstrate what the equipment does.  This is always a moment of intrigue for the locals to finally see how it works.

So, back to Kupang.  We made it to the airport on time, said goodbye to our awesome driver and friend Ule, and checked our tools and bags in to the flight.  Also, GO GIANTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Flying back to Kupang over central Sumba.  Station NAPU is down there close to the northern tip of the island, listening to the Earth's secrets...