The Savu Sea is a fertile cradle for fish mongering and, too, fish devouring. You cannot, in good conscience, visit Kupang and not pay a trip to one of the many fish markets to sample the local stock. The fish are displayed in a sort of fleshy rainbow that boasts everything from smaller specimens, usually sold in groups of several, to single behemoths fit for a hungry family. You'll find red snapper, white snapper, tuna, and dozens of other brightly-colored beasts I can't name. After you've picked your prize you can either take it home raw or, as we'd recommend, pay a few thousand rupiah more (about 1 USD) to have it prepared for you on-site. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and ikan goreng (fried) are the two main fares. Either can be as pedas (spicy) as you like, depending on how many Thai chilies they use during the cooking process - more is better! When it comes to the eating, hands-on is the best approach, no utensils necessary. These fresh treats are served with all the bones, eyes and skin included (no guts, of course), so digging through them with a fork feels a lot like trying to crochet in boxing gloves.